Magic in the Mountains

May 3, 2024 (12. miles)

Drymen- Rowardennan

We woke up after another great night’s sleep in a bed(!) and took showers in easily the smallest shower I’ve ever seen. We had a “light Scottish breakfast” of yogurt and toast with two other American women from Washington (Nancy and Ellie), before getting coffee and a lemon pound cake at the local bakery then hit the trail. We walked along the road out of town before hopping on double track and gently going uphill. We passed lots of the blooming yellow “gorse” (according to Seek) that really popped against the blue sky. It was another perfect day for hiking with comfortable temps, overcast skies, and a slight breeze.

We were on the double track trail for several miles and walked past many other walkers. I’m surprised how many other people are on the WHW. It’s obviously very established and well known, it seems like there are a lot of other nationalities here and we’ve heard a variety of languages so far. The double track took us through a section of forest that was being logged before putting us out in a sprawling pasture at the base of Conic Hill.

The climb up the hill was brief compared to hills back home, and the views along the way were stupendous! Lots of mountains off in the distance and Loch Lomond front and center. We made it to the top and were assaulted by winds that nearly took us off our feet! Cade found a little nook just down the ridge sheltered from the wind for us to enjoy a “wee dram” of whisky before our steep descent into Balmaha for lunch.

We ate at the Oak Tree Inn and split Mac and cheese, haggis and mash (our first on the trip, it was delicious!), and a black pudding BBQ pizza. We got coffee at St. Mocha before beginning the second half of the day. The town of Balmaha was small but situated right on the loch. We loved watching the ducks and boats on the water as the trail hugged the outskirts of town.

We went up and over a few small hills that gave us beautiful views back towards Conic hill- it looks so big and menacing but it’s only 1184′! For the next few days it seems like the trail is going to follow the loch which I think will be super pretty. Supposedly today and tomorrow are going to be some of the “most technical” terrain because of roots and rocks- today felt like another cake walk so I’m interested to see what tomorrow holds.

The trail cut back and forth between loch side and going through beech forests. We weren’t moving in a hurry but still made it into camp by 5pm. The Sallochy Campsite is right on the water and is basically just a big field of tents with the nicest pit toilets I’ve ever seen. Another wonderful day on trail!